Finishing
When making decisions about artwork, paper and presswork take a careful look at bindery options. Creative use of binding/finishing options can greatly enhance your project, but can also be a problem area if not properly planned for. Planning is critical to the success of your project. Be sure to review your job carefully and always supply a mock-up of your job, especially on any complex jobs. The best time to provide a mock-up is at the time you put in an order for an estimate. This will help everyone to determine the most accurate cost. Quality Impressions has produced extremely complex jobs for many clients, and can assist you in making your ideas cost-effective.

Foil Stamping / Foil Embossing / Blind Embossing
Foil stamping is just one of many finishing items that can be added to enhance your design. Foil stamping is a process where heat and pressure are utilized to stamp a thin metallic or pigment-based material onto paper, cardstock and other items. Foils are commonly used on labels, stationary, invitations, company identification packets, and much more. One issue of importance is compatibility with laser printers. These printers normally use heat, which can bubble or dull the shine of the foil. Always request a laser compatible sheet for anything that will be imprinted on lasers. We will happily test your paper and foil for compatibility. Foil Embossing has all of the same traits above except the foil area is raised. Blind embossing is a technique where the image is raised by use of a female die and a male counter that embosses or raises the level of the paper surface in desired areas. Embossing can also be married to the printed work to raise portions to create additional dimension or detail. There are many factors in determining the right fit for the right process. Dies need to be considered as well. Copper, brass, flat foil, foil and emboss, combination dies, and counters. As you can see there are a lot of variables here. Let us be of assistance.

Binding
Binding is a word that refers to a wide variety of processes. Some of these processes include: cutting, folding, gluing, knitting, drilling, padding, collating and more. The most common reference to binding is book binding. This process is most commonly done by a method called saddle stitching. The signature is opened up and stapled in the center, then trimmed down to the final size. Saddle stitching is limited in thickness by the length of the stitches and the ability of the stitcher to transport and trim the book to final size. Another method of binding is known as perfect binding. This is also a very common type of binding used in the print industry. Perfect binding is a method where the binding edge of a book or magazine is ground down to about 1/8" and coated with fast-drying glue. Then a flexible cover is attached, creating a squared-off backbone. Side stitching is a binding method where usually one or two staples are passed through flat sheets, usually in the production of coupon books. One important thing to remember when creating a book is that a signature is a printed sheet folded to become part of a publication. Signatures always contain pages in increments of four, such as 4, 8, 12, 16, 24, or 32 pages. However, this rule does not apply to perfect binding. A single sheet (2 pages) can be added while it is not necessary to adhere to signatures of four pages or more.

Dies
To help cut down on many of your questions, here are some helpful hints about what information regarding dies to include on your specs. If your project foils, embosses, foil embosses or debosses remember to specify the size of foil area, and type of die requested. Die types include brass, copper and magnesium dies. It is helpful if you know about dies, but if you don't, we can help you with any questions that may arise. Please include a detailed drawing to size of any item that will be more than one level, especially if it is a foil emboss project. Keep in mind that dies will not last forever. With high usage they will have to be replaced in time.

Copper
Simple flat-foil dies or embossing dies are normally made of copper. Copper is less expensive and harder than brass and will last longer than most dies due to its hardness. Since copper is a harder material this makes working with it and with hand tools very difficult for die makers. Copper dies are the hardest, longest lasting and most widely used dies in the business. A copper die produces good quality for runs of 50,000-100,000.

Brass
Brass is a relatively soft material and is best suited for intricately-detailed pieces. Brass dies are hand-made and are used for combination foil emboss, deboss and embossing dies. They are long-lasting and can produce over one million impressions. A brass die will enable you to achieve the ultimate in detail, but it will also set you back financially. Combination brass dies are very expensive, but it's worth the money. There is no better material than brass for showing detail in your work.

Magnesium
Magnesium dies are the last choice of die for most printing companies. Over a period of time, Magnesium will pit or develop small holes in it. Magnesium dies seldom produce a job without flaws. Heat causes the Magnesium dies to stretch or distort. The cost of magnesium is less than that of a copper die. Using Magnesium is a fast and cheap way to get a die made. Due to the softness of the material however, magnesium dies should be only used on shorter runs of 1,000-5,000.

Die Cutting
Die cutting is another finishing element that creates a special look, feel or shape. Die cuts add dimension to a project with different shapes and designs. Sending out an invitation for a football event? Cut the invitation into the shape of a football! Ideas such as these can give you an eye-catching piece. Die cutting is a separate process which is run on a different machine than the offset printing. A steel rule, or series of steel rules are cut, bent and mounted in wood. With this type of die much can be accomplished such as scoring, die cutting and kiss cutting all in the same press pass. Since most dies are still hand-made by professional die makers, the precision of steel dies have some limitations. The biggest limitation when considering the use of die cutting as part of your project should be in the amount of detail in the cut. The points and curves of the die must not be too sharp or tight. Remember, in most cases a 2-point or 6-point rule is being bent to create the curve or effect. Also, there must be allowances made for the fit of the die cut to the work. The die cutting presses are very accurate in registration but it is important to have bleed on any printed piece if the printing fits to the die cut.

Vanishes / Coating
This area is usually a designer's playpen, providing an opportunity to create spot varnish plates, flood coatings with touch plates to present a unique look. While there are volumes of information on special effects which can be done with varnishes and coating, the most common effect is either a flood coating or two spots, one gloss and one is either a flood coating or two spots, one gloss and one dull. Aqueous coatings are not just appealing to look at, they are also a blessing for the printer in the print-on-demand environment of today. Aqueous coatings give us the ability to handle and cut jobs within a very short period of time after they are printed. This allows us to proceed to the next step in the process much sooner than on a job printed without coatings. Please ask us about special effects such as adding metallic to varnishes, invisible security inks, along with pearlescent colors that create a unique look but will not copy. There is a world of available tricks and techniques at your disposal to create that special unique look for you and your client.

Lamination
Lamination is a projective plastic most commonly used in the production of menus to keep them from getting wet and damaged. It also allows the client to clean the menu without ruining it. Lamination can be a gloss or matte finish in various thicknesses depending on your requirements. It can also have sealed edges or a flush cut. Flush cutting is the most common when a piece has to die cut and the sealed edge is die cut off. When producing a piece that is to be folded, always make sure that the scoring is done prior to the lamination. If it is scored after the lamination is applied, there is a good chance the lamination will crack or split. If a certain thickness is required for a particular piece, a cost-cutting tip when using lamination is to increase the thickness of the paper and decrease the thickness of the lamination.



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